Iran has a long history of cosmetics and toiletries that dates back to Persian times. While women increasingly play a critical role in Iranian politics, their faces still remain hidden behind a veil. A rule requiring all women to appear in public in Islamic dress was written into the country’s penal code, but the Koranic verse that defines it is subject to interpretatation. The Islamic Republic didn’t invent the veil.

Today, its traditional yet popular materials, including sormeh (a black powder used as eyeliner) and golab (rose water) co-exist with foreign offers and beauty brands such as L’Oréal Paris.

Doctor knows best

With a population of more than 68 million, there is huge potential for beauty companies to tap into the market. However, with a 60% market share, pharmacies provide the principal channel for beauty sales selling an array of premium, selective and mass brands. The remaining 40% comes from retailers such as perfumeries and beauty institutes.

One particularity of the market is the link between beauty and medicine, demonstrated by the industry’s role in the pharmacy channel. Doctors and dermatologists are major purchasing advisors in Iran. Even to choose a makeup remover, women ask for their doctor’s advice.

If local brands will not be the main players in the market, local customs will certainly dictate the avenues foreign brands should explore.

Islamic values and cosmetic exhibition

The first cosmetics and personal hygiene fair was closed by the Iranian judiciary on February 6, 2005 in Mashhad city, which is a holy city devoted to Islamic values. During the exhibition, a large number of Iranian women visited the stands offering colour cosmetics and other feminine toiletries. Many women were openly wearing bright make-up, which is not in line with the Islamic code of conduct that forbids colourful make-up in public.

The Iranian judiciary officially asked the director of the Mashhad exhibition that only women run the cosmetic stands in order to respect the Islamic code, but it was not done. As a result, the Mashhad cosmetics exhibition was shut down but later re-opened.

Since the 1979 Islamic revolution, adolescent females have been required to wear a veil. But in spite of these restrictions, not all women cover their hair totally anymore and often wear trasnparent scarves so that their hairstyle can be visible. These customs open the door to the haircare segment, as well as to the eye makeup category, which is already a traditional bestseller in the market as eye contact is paramount in Iran, according to Hashemithe.